Games of Thrones : Wallingford & Ewelme

Since the ice ages, the Thames in Oxfordshire has flowed south towards Reading and onto London through the Goring Gap, which separates the Chilterns from the North Wessex Downs. Being deep and wide enough to be navigable for much of its length meant that it was always a major transport route, but also presented a barrier to those travelling on foot. This all made it something of a gyre in early English history. What follows is based on notes from one of my cycle routes on pootler.co.uk, but serves equally well for a quick visit by whatever means suits you. Wallingford lies at the centre of the area where the river enters the Gap, and which was crossed by land routes used since time immemorial, including the ancient trackways, the Roman roads and the later tollroads. But the key is that, throughout the year, and especially if you had a few thousand heavily armed and malodorous pals with you, it was the best place to ford the river. The Thames in flood ...